Congratulations on your purchase of a new pinewood derby track. It was made with great care from the finest plywood available. When properly stored it will stay flat and smooth without delamination for an indefinite period. Our guarantee is quite simple: If at any time you feel you have not received your money's worth we will do whatever it takes to make you feel that way; up to and including giving it all back.
It is only necessary to apply a finish to keep the track clean. Please note that if you select to do so then you must finish both sides. There are many varnishes and paints which can readily be applied. The simplest to use would be just about any interior or exterior latex house paint; follow the directions on the can. For those of you who would prefer a clear finish it would be our recommendation to use a water-based sanding sealer and a water-based urethane topcoat. The brand available at our local supply store is 'CARVER TRIPPS Safe-n-Easy'. Other manufacturers make similar products which may be distributed in your area. These materials go on easily, dry quickly without fumes, and clean up with warm water. We would also recommend the use of inexpensive foam poly-brushes. These will 'sponge-up' excess material more readily than expensive bristle brushes. The sealer coat sands easily without build-up. The sandpaper you should use is referred to as 'rub-out' paper and is available at paint and wallpaper stores. Technically speaking it is a stearated open coat silicon carbide in a 180-220 grit. You will not need more than two sheets.
The track should be stored in its original shipping carton. It is not necessary to remove the support legs from section I, they will fold flat. It is necessary to remove the starting gate. Take care when tightening and loosening these four wood screws. The carton should be stored flat and level. If placed on a rack it should be supported in the middle as well as each end. If storage is to be on a cement floor it would be necessary to block it up at least six inches; cardboard and wood will draw moisture right through concrete.
(4) 8' track sections
(3) 23" joint plates
(1) 42" long support leg w/hinges attached
(1) 12" long support leg w/hinges attached
(3) 2" wide section shims
(1) 65" long cross brace
(1) 31" long support foot
(1) weight rack dowel (1" x 6")
(1) starting gate w/hinges attached
(1) foam rubber finish line barrier
(1) plastic bag containing:
(2) brace brackets (aluminum angles)
(2) brass hooks (#5 wood screw)
(2) 1/4-20 x 32.5" carriage bolts
(3) rubber bands
(45) 1/4-20 x 3/4 button head cap screws
(45) 1/4" flat washers
(13) #5 x 5/8 phillips flat head wood screws
(1) 5/32" hex key
1) A #2 phillips head screw driver
2) A 5/32" hex key (included)
You will need two 10lb weight-lifting plates. Someone in your track should have these sitting in their basement or garage. If not they can be purchased at most local department stores. A pair of concrete filled plastic weights should cost less than ten dollars (The DP brand is sold locally for $5.99).
Approximate assembly time: It should take one person knowledgeable of the instructions, working alone, 30 to 40 minutes.
Step 1: Affix the 42" support leg to the underside of section I. Use (4) of the #5 wood screws. The hinges should be oriented away from the start end. Screw into the pre-drilled holes. Start all four screws before tightening. Fold down when secure. Affix the 12" support leg to section I in the same manner.
Step 2: Join Section I to Section II (A to A). This is cumbersome because the 12" support leg is in the way. It is easier to do this while the pieces are on their sides. Unfolding the support legs will hold Section I upright while you work.
Use eight button head cap screws and washers. Pass through the car guides on top of the track and thread into a joint plate. Carefully start all eight screws before tightening.
Align the car guides with your fingertips as you tighten the screws. the car guides of the down-track section have been slightly tapered to avoid any protrudence.
Step 3: Mount the cross brace between the two support legs while the track is still on its side. It is secured to each support leg with with a brace bracket (aluminum angle). Note that the holes in the support leg are offset so the brace can mount in the center. Also note that the cross brace should be positioned with the hole for the weight rack closer to the 12" support leg.
Use four button head cap screws and washers at each end. Again, start all eight screws before tightening. You are now ready to carefully lift the partially assembled track and set it upright on the support legs.
Step 4: Screw the support foot to the bottom of the 42" support leg using two button head screws and washers (you will have to raise the support leg slightly).
The track should now be secure and safe from toppling.
Step 5: Pass the weight-rack dowel halfway through the hole in the cross brace. We recommend that you place a ten pound weight-lifting plate (two required, not included) on each side of the brace. The scout leader 'How-to-Book' calls for sandbags. This ensures a level and uniform curve to the track.
Step 6: Add Sections III and IV to the track (B to B & C to C). Place the joint plates underneath, align, and tighten as in the first seam.
Step 7: Section shims should be installed under the middle of Section III and under the middle and very end of Section IV. These shims keep the last two sections from sagging.
Step 8: Secure the foam barrier to the end of the track. Thread the two 3.5" carriage bolts through the foam into the female threaded inserts. Finger tighten until the foam starts to compress. Note: It may be difficult to thread through the foam. A shot of silicone, WD-40, or even a touch of graphite will inhibit the foam from 'grabbing' the screw.
Step 9: Secure the starting gate using the four phillips head wood screws provided. Pass the starting pegs through the slots and screw into the pre-drilled holes. As before, start all screws before tightening. Screw one of the brass hooks provided into the pre-drilled hole in the starting gate.
Step 10: Screw the remaining brass hook into the pre-drilled hole at the top of the longer support leg. Loop the three rubber bands around both hooks. You may adjust the tension on the starting gate by eliminating one or two bands, twisting, or knotting. You must flip the starting gate quickly to prevent cars from climbing over the pegs. The best procedure is to operate the gate from the side, one handed, the same way you would turn a doorknob.
Step 11: Gentlemen, Start Your Engines!